Moschino's creative director exits amid aeffe group struggles
Adrian Appiolaza has departed Moschino, leaving the Italian fashion house navigating ongoing challenges within the Aeffe Group.
A shift in direction, following a series of setbacks
The Argentinian designer’s two-and-a-half-year tenure concluded abruptly, coinciding with a broader restructuring within Aeffe Group, which also encompasses Alberta Ferretti and Pollini. Revenues for Pollini alone have seen a significant decline – 24.5% as of September 2025 – fueling further questions about the group’s stability.
A brief, but intense, partnership
Appiolaza’s appointment in January 2024 followed the tragic death of David Renne, the previously tapped creative director, just ten days after assuming the role. His arrival was positioned as a revitalization effort, aiming to inject a more contemporary approach – blending Moschino’s signature excess with structured tailoring – into the brand’s collections, particularly with a focus on appealing to a wider customer base. Nicole Phelps noted in 2025 that his “eccentric but real” equation was beginning to take hold.
Internal speculation and potential replacements
Now, industry whispers are turning towards potential successors. Rumors are swirling around Milan-based brand Sunnei’s founders, Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo, though the Aeffe Group has yet to confirm any developments. The appointment of general manager Riccardo Bagolin earlier this year, alongside restructuring officer Stefano Falliti, signals a determined attempt to steer the group towards a turnaround – a task proving increasingly difficult given the financial pressures.
A legacy of experience
Prior to Moschino, Appiolaza honed his design skills at prestigious houses like Loewe, Chloé (under Clare Waight Keller), Louis Vuitton (under Marc Jacobs), and Miu Miu (under Miuccia Prada). His track record speaks to a sophisticated understanding of luxury branding and a willingness to experiment, qualities now keenly sought after as Moschino seeks to redefine itself.
Milan show remains on schedule
Despite the upheaval, Moschino's upcoming February 22nd show in Milan remains scheduled, a testament to the brand's commitment to presenting its vision moving forward. The future, however, remains uncertain.