De sarno shifts gears: from gucci runway to artisanal renaissance
Sabato De Sarno’s post-Gucci journey isn’t a return, but a deliberate redirection – a move away from the relentless glare of the Fashion industry and into a realm of craftsmanship and tangible beauty. After a brief, controversial stint at Gucci, the designer is now curating a project, ‘Insieme,’ that celebrates the meticulous artistry behind handcrafted goods.
A year of unexpected connections
Far from the expected void, De Sarno describes his time after Gucci as a period of discovery. “I never felt a sense of emptiness,” he stated, revealing a surprising period of focused exploration. “For nearly 23 years, I had done nothing but work, so I actually rediscovered time.” He immersed himself in diverse projects, including collaborating with the organization Orgoglio Porta Venezia on a film highlighting Neapolitan artisans and undertaking a personal project documenting his city, Naples – a deliberate effort to move beyond stereotypical portrayals.
‘Insieme’ – a manifesto of makers
The ‘Insieme’ exhibition, debuting at Salone del Mobile, showcases 12 Italian artisanal companies, each presenting a single, carefully considered design object. Photographs of the artisans themselves, captured in a striking collaboration with artist JR, adorn the façade of the Piscina Cozzi, transforming it into a powerful visual statement. “With the artist JR, we photographed 79 artisans involved in the project, and their portraits will be displayed on the façade of the municipal Piscina Cozzi as a kind of manifesto,” De Sarno explained. This isn’t merely a display; it’s an affirmation of the human element—the countless hours, the skill, and the dedication that underpin every creation.
Beyond the runway: a reassessment of ready-to-wear
De Sarno’s shift reflects a critical assessment of the current state of ready-to-wear. “I’m not sure whether I would define myself as a curator,” he admits, “but when I take on a project, I like to go all the way, to understand deeply, to go beyond the surface.” He argues that the industry has lost sight of its original purpose—to dress and serve real people. “Ready-to-wear was originally created to dress people, to bring Fashion and style to the everyday life of people,” he asserts. “Today, a coat cannot cost €11,000; those are no longer ready-to-wear prices.”
Navigating criticism and maintaining authenticity
Despite facing significant social media backlash, De Sarno remains resolute. “I’ve obviously read, seen, and experienced criticism,” he acknowledges. “At first, I wasn’t used to it, and it did hurt me. Then, after a while, you stop paying attention.” However, he recognizes the shift towards online bullying and the tendency to prioritize visibility over constructive feedback. “It’s true that some criticism has hurt me, but if you open Instagram, there’s a good dose of harshness for everyone.”
Looking ahead: a focus on connection
Moving forward, De Sarno isn’t seeking a grand return to the Fashion house circuit. “I’m looking for the right place for me,” he concludes, emphasizing the importance of collaboration and shared vision. “I want to feel accompanied and supported in my next chapter.” The ‘Insieme’ project itself exemplifies this pursuit – a testament to the power of human connection and the enduring value of craft.