Irish couture dreams realized: clare designer’s monumental debut
After a decade of painstaking dedication, Michael Stewart’s ‘Standing Ground’ collection will finally grace the runways of Paris haute couture this Monday, marking a pivotal moment for the visionary designer.
A journey forged in ancient ideals
Hailing from County Clare, Stewart’s ambition to showcase his work in the hallowed halls of Parisian fashion has been a long-held aspiration. He recently revealed his atelier, a hidden gem within London’s art and fashion district at 180 Strand, where he meticulously oversees fittings with stylist Tallulah Harlech. ‘It’s all very elaborate work,’ Stewart explained, gesturing towards a corset being tightened, ‘just to make the simplicity come through, it has to have the elaborate elements to kind of get to that level.’
The collection’s genesis lies in a profound connection to Ireland’s prehistoric standing stones – a concept he’s termed ‘Standing Ground.’ This isn’t a simple theme; it’s a working methodology that has evolved over 15 years, transforming into sculpted corsetry and fluid drapery. ‘The standing stones, that’s a loose reference,’ he stated, ‘None of my stuff looks like a standing stone, it’s just a figure, just an emanation of a powerful ancient figure that I imagine, and that’s how I kind of create something new.’
From bedroom couture to international recognition
Stewart’s journey has been one of deliberate isolation, a conscious rejection of the mainstream. For five years, he persisted in his craft, receiving little to no commercial interest. He described his early creations as ‘bedroom couture,’ meticulously crafted pieces born from a stubborn refusal to compromise his vision. ‘And I did beautiful work, and the only time I did say it was couture was jokingly when I said it was like my bedroom couture. Making these really special things in my bedroom,’ he recalled.
His breakthrough came through Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East shows in 2023, instantly elevating his brand. Standing Ground’s modern elegance quickly established Stewart as a pioneering force within London’s design scene – the first of his generation to prioritize custom orders over wholesale distribution. This success was further bolstered by support from philanthropic networks and generous studios offered by Trino Verkade and Mark Wadhwa, culminating in the prestigious Savoir-Faire award from the LVMH Prize in 2024.
‘I think there was a cultural shift, even in the past five years, with what people wear on the red carpet,’ Stewart mused. ‘It’s become much more accepting of innovative design or interesting design.’ He remains fiercely private about his clientele, international travelers who champion lesser-known designers. ‘I never see photographs of my clients wearing my clothes,’ he confirmed, ‘It’s the reason he has little regard for publicity or social media.’
Today, his atelier is filled with ‘Private Clients’ – a testament to his unwavering commitment to a singular, un-hyped approach. ‘My clients are my best advertisements,’ he asserts smartly. ‘Some are the first to wear Standing Ground in their regions.’ He’s a resolute non-believer in the conventional metrics of success, preferring to let word-of-mouth fuel his growth. And it will, undoubtedly, reach the doors of the Irish Embassy in Paris this Monday evening – a debut poised to reshape the narrative of contemporary couture.