Title: Des Kohan's 21-Year LA Boutique to Make Rare NYFW Debut for Emerging Designers

Content:

Title: Des Kohan's 21-Year LA Boutique to Make Rare NYFW Debut for Emerging Desi

For the first time in two decades, Des Kohan, the esteemed Los Angeles boutique owner, will attend New York Fashion Week (NYFW) this September. Des Kohan has been a go-to destination for fashion discovery in LA for 21 years, but Kohan has never prioritized the seasonal circuit. However, her growing involvement with a group of independent female designers – Ashlynn Park of Ashlyn, Maria McManus, and Alissa Zachary of High Sport – has compelled her to make the trip.

Ashlyn and McManus will showcase their collections at NYFW, while High Sport plans a digital presentation. Kohan admires these designers for their authenticity and uniqueness, qualities that remind her of advice from Dries Van Noten on slowly growing a store with loyal partners.

Kohan's return to NYFW coincides with a pivotal moment for retailers and designers outside of fashion's largest conglomerates. The luxury wholesale landscape has been upended by consolidation and financial strain, from the merger of Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus to Mytheresa's acquisition of Yoox Net-a-Porter. As e-commerce giants and department stores become more cautious in their buying and rely on fewer, bigger brands, specialty stores like Des Kohan are becoming vital lifelines for independent designers, reshaping fashion's front row in the process.

A new class of independent retail power players, including Brian Bolke of The Conservatory, Lisa Cancelli of Viola Lovely, and Kaelen Haworth of Absolutely Fabrics, is gaining visibility alongside major buyers. These retailers invest in emerging designers and build their businesses season by season, as seen at Ashlyn's recent shows where this type of buyer has become a significant presence.

Des Kohan's own approach has been honed over two decades. The store has never held a sale, a rare feat in the industry, reflecting Kohan's disciplined buying and customers' willingness to pay full price for unique pieces. E-commerce accounts for just 15% of sales, emphasizing the enduring appeal of the physical store experience and one-on-one selling. Gross sales have grown 20% annually over the past five years.

Kohan has cultivated a loyal LA following, including actor Tracee Ellis Ross, fashion advisor Katherine Ross Govan, influencer Chriselle Lim, stylists Mariel Haenn and Erica Cloud, and costume designer Negar Ali Kline. This network brings in new customers and reinforces the boutique's reputation for exclusivity and curation. As Kohan's NYFW debut signals, her commitment to emerging designers and the physical retail experience will continue to shape the fashion landscape.